Xijiang, the village that is paid to look like itself

A thousand wooden houses stacked up a hillside in Guizhou, a dawn that never arrived, and the eighteen per cent of the ticket price that keeps the roofs on.

A thousand wooden houses stacked up a hillside in Guizhou, a dawn that never arrived, and the eighteen per cent of the ticket price that keeps the roofs on.

A garrison town wrapped around an S-bend of the Wuyang River, a cliff with thirty-six buildings bolted to it, and a lesson about toll gates that cost me a hundred yuan.

China is completely app-driven these days. Everything is handled by one app or another. Here are some of the most essential. Payment Cash is rarely used in China. Even the smallest street vendor takes payment via app. Credit cards are…

Everyone tells you Chongqing is the largest city on earth. Thirty-two million people, they say. The number is real, and it is still the wrong number.

Three hours through the mountains from Xi'an, an afternoon in a restored Manchu garrison, and a 07:30 slot at the panda base that did nothing whatsoever to beat the crowds.

Farmers digging a well in 1974, a history museum where you fight for a view of every display case, and eight thousand clay soldiers in the rain outside Xi'an.

Three days in Shanghai: a garden built for somebody's father, a neighbourhood I reached ninety minutes late, and a mile of riverfront that everybody stands on with their backs turned.

A taxi collected me at half past eight and the next morning I woke up in Shanghai. There is a technical term for that, and it involves nineteenth century Portland.

The last night in Mumbai: a night market, a decision not to sleep, and a 2:25 AM departure. Seat 59D turns out to be a find. Home before noon.

Hollywood has the money. Bollywood has the numbers. A comparison of two industries that share a name suffix and almost nothing else, from someone who has spent time in both.