Breakfast in Varkala, lunch in Bangalore, dinner in Goa

Three cities in one day. Breakfast in Varkala, a layover in Bangalore, dinner in Goa, arriving just in time for sunset at the beach.

Well, not quite breakfast in Varkala. India wakes up slowly, and when I walked down to the cliff walk for breakfast at 7.30 AM most places were still closed.

Not quite ready to serve breakfast at 7.30 AM

I finally found one with some movement and I asked if they were open. Yes, they said, come on in. But once I tried to place my order only coffee was available. No food until 8 AM.

Today was a travel day. I ordered an Uber to go to an airport I can’t even pronounce the name of: Thiruvananthapuram International Airport, about an hour south of Varkala. After some confusion (there are two airports, the driver told me), we arrived at the domestic terminal on the opposite side of the airport from the International Terminal. Everything went smoothly, IndoGo had sent me the boarding passes via email and also in their app earlier this morning, and soon we were off for the first leg of the day to Bangalore.

The flight was smooth and on time, and I had time for lunch in Bangalore before the next leg, to Goa. That flight left early and arrived early, and I was in the taxi to my hotel before the scheduled arrival time.

I had booked a guest house in Palolem in South Goa, about an hour’s drive from the airport, and I just made it there in time to enjoy a beer followed by dinner on the beach.

A long day of travel, but everything went according to plan with no delays or any other problems. Apart from the missed breakfast.


North Goa vs South Goa

Goa is small enough to cross in an hour, but the north and south feel like different countries. Which one you want depends entirely on what you came for.

North Goa

Calangute, Baga, Anjuna, Vagator. These are the names you’ll find in every travel guide, and they’ve been shaped accordingly. The beaches are lively, the shacks are loud, and the stretch from Calangute to Baga on a Saturday evening is a reliable demonstration of what happens when a quiet fishing village becomes one of Asia’s most popular party destinations. Accommodation is cheaper here, the backpacker infrastructure is well developed, and if nightlife is the point, this is where to be. Go in knowing what it is and you’ll have a fine time. Go expecting quiet and you’ll be disappointed by lunchtime.

South Goa

Palolem, Agonda, Colva, Benaulim. The beaches are wider, the crowds thinner, and the general tempo somewhere between relaxed and horizontal. Accommodation is better quality and costs a little more. The restaurants are calmer. Palolem in particular has a crescent beach that genuinely earns its reputation, and Agonda is quieter still. For photography, the south is far more rewarding: better light conditions on the water, fewer people in frame, and the kind of early morning beach that feels like it belongs to you. The tradeoff is that it can tip into sleepy if you’re there for more than a few days without a scooter.

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