Kandy: Moving into the mountains

The bus from Colombo to Kandy costs $2.50 for three hours of climbing. Up in the highlands, the last capital of the Kandyan Kingdom still has weight.

The bus from Colombo to Kandy costs $2.50 for three hours of climbing. Up in the highlands, the last capital of the Kandyan Kingdom still has weight.

Read on the flight from Mumbai to Colombo. Three colonial powers in sequence, one civil war, and a name that changed in 1972. Ceylon became Sri Lanka.

A tuktuk driver offered a two-hour city tour for $10. I said yes. Colombo delivered on the temples and the seafront, and confirmed the title of this post.

The world's largest open-air laundry: 700 families, operating since the 1890s, no machinery. Most visitors stay at the railing. The real thing is below.

Leopold Cafe has been open since 1871. The bullet holes in the window frame are from 2008. Breakfast, Dhobi Ghat at ground level, and Marine Drive at sunset.

At 9 AM I took a taxi back to the hotel I had actually booked. The first proper day in Mumbai started with a second nap and the Gateway of India by afternoon.

The taxi was early. 4.10 AM instead of 4.15, which suited me fine. The hotel in Mumbai had already given away my room by the time I got there.

The tips I wish someone had given me before my first morning in Mumbai. Visas, money, trains, food, Goa, Kerala, photography, and the honest part.

I bought the ticket on a whim in April 2025. Norse Atlantic had a sale, the price was hard to argue with, and I clicked before thinking too hard about it. The gamble was not entirely trivial — Norse Atlantic…
Stockholm to Bangkok on a Norse Atlantic Dreamliner: eleven hours, water offered once, and an arrival at 4.30 in the morning.