The last night in Mumbai: a night market, a decision not to sleep, and a 2:25 AM departure. Seat 59D turns out to be a find. Home before noon.
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Hollywood, Bollywood: Different but the same
Hollywood has the money. Bollywood has the numbers. A comparison of two industries that share a name suffix and almost nothing else, from someone who has spent time in both.
Read MoreA morning in Dharavi
A private walking tour of Dharavi, Mumbai's densest neighbourhood. Two million people, three dollars a day, plastic recycling, soap, ceramics. Everyone working, all the time.
Read MoreWinding down in South Goa
For the last few days in India, Palolem Beach in South Goa. A crescent of sand, calm water, beach huts, and a pace that makes it easy to stop counting days.
Read MorePit No. 30
Pit No. 30, dated 14 February 2026. A Forest Department mesh cage on Palolem Beach, a turtle nest inside, and a small calculation about what might already have happened by the time I found it.
Read MoreIndiGo: Air travel for the masses
India's largest carrier and by some distance its best budget option. Four flights on a modern A320neo fleet, new aircraft, smooth boarding, and rather better than Ryanair. Which is not nothing.
Read MoreBreakfast in Varkala, lunch in Bangalore, dinner in Goa
Three cities in one day. Breakfast in Varkala, a layover in Bangalore, dinner in Goa, arriving just in time for sunset at the beach.
Read MoreSlow day in Varkala
The best breakfast I have ever eaten at a restaurant that was closed. A slow day on the Varkala cliff, good coffee, warm water, and no particular plans.
Read MoreKumily to Varkala: The Journey is the Reward
Seven hours of travel on a local bus and a train to cover a modest distance through Kerala. Tea hills, backwaters glimpsed between palm trees, a conversation with strangers, and a thirty-cent waiting room that was worth considerably more.
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