Travelog

  • Kandy: Moving into the mountains

    Kandy: Moving into the mountains

    The bus from Colombo to Kandy costs $2.50 for three hours of climbing. Up in the highlands, the last capital of the Kandyan Kingdom still has weight.

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  • A Short History of Ceylon

    A Short History of Ceylon

    Read on the flight from Mumbai to Colombo. Three colonial powers in sequence, one civil war, and a name that changed in 1972. Ceylon became Sri Lanka.

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  • Sightseeing in Colombo: One day is enough

    Sightseeing in Colombo: One day is enough

    A tuktuk driver offered a two-hour city tour for $10. I said yes. Colombo delivered on the temples and the seafront, and confirmed the title of this post.

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  • Dhobi Ghat: Mumbai’s laundromat

    Dhobi Ghat: Mumbai’s laundromat

    The world’s largest open-air laundry: 700 families, operating since the 1890s, no machinery. Most visitors stay at the railing. The real thing is below.

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  • Exploring Mumbai

    Exploring Mumbai

    Leopold Cafe has been open since 1871. The bullet holes in the window frame are from 2008. Breakfast, Dhobi Ghat at ground level, and Marine Drive at sunset.

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  • First Morning in Mumbai

    First Morning in Mumbai

    At 9 AM I took a taxi back to the hotel I had actually booked. The first proper day in Mumbai started with a second nap and the Gateway of India by afternoon.

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  • 24 Hours to Mumbai

    24 Hours to Mumbai

    The taxi was early. 4.10 AM instead of 4.15, which suited me fine. The hotel in Mumbai had already given away my room by the time I got there.

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  • Thailand 2025 Wrap-Up

    Thailand 2025 Wrap-Up

    I bought the ticket on a whim in April 2025. Norse Atlantic had a sale, the price was hard to argue with, and I clicked before thinking too hard about it. The gamble was not entirely trivial — Norse Atlantic…

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  • Route 66 History

    Route 66 History

    Table of Contents Chapter 1: The Birth of Route 66 Chapter 2: The Rise and Golden Age of Route 66 (1920s–1950s) Chapter 3: Decline and Displacement (1960s–1980s) Chapter 4: The Route 66 Renaissance (1990s–2000s) Chapter 5: Route 66 in the…

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