Nine Arches Bridge

The fever had broken by morning. Not dramatically, just quietly gone, the way these things go when the body has decided it has made its point. I took my temperature before getting up: 36.9. I had breakfast on the balcony…

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The fever had broken by morning. Not dramatically, just quietly gone, the way these things go when the body has decided it has made its point. I took my temperature before getting up: 36.9. I had breakfast on the balcony…

The plan for the morning was straightforward: hike to Little Adam’s Peak, take some photographs, be back before the midday heat. I had coffee and toast at the hotel, spent an hour at the computer, and left at 11 AM,…

The owner of White Lodge cooked breakfast just for me at 6.15 in the morning. Coffee, toast, sausage and mango, while the rest of Kandy was still asleep. It was a kind gesture, and I appreciated it more than I…

I got up early and took a tuktuk to the bus station. It is ridiculously easy to find a tuktuk in Colombo, just step out the door and raise your arm and one instantly picks you up. The bus from…

The flight from Mumbai to Colombo is two and a half hours. Not long enough to sleep properly, too short to watch a film. I had a window seat, a coffee, and a gap in my knowledge that had been…

Colombo in the morning is a different city from the one you arrive in at 2 AM. The Pettah market area near the bus station is dense and purposeful at this hour, vendors setting up, deliveries being made, no particular…

Most visitors to Mumbai have heard of Dhobi Ghat without quite knowing what it is. The short answer is that it’s the world’s largest open-air laundry, a vast complex of concrete wash pens near Mahalaxmi station where an estimated 700…

Leopold Cafe has been open since 1871. The ceiling fans turn slowly, the tables fill early, and the menu runs to everything from eggs to steak. On any given morning the clientele is a cross-section of Colaba regulars, travelers who…