Category Blog

Three hours through the mountains from Xi'an, an afternoon in a restored Manchu garrison, and a 07:30 slot at the panda base that did nothing whatsoever to beat the crowds.

Farmers digging a well in 1974, a history museum where you fight for a view of every display case, and eight thousand clay soldiers in the rain outside Xi'an.

Three days in Shanghai: a garden built for somebody's father, a neighbourhood I reached ninety minutes late, and a mile of riverfront that everybody stands on with their backs turned.

A taxi collected me at half past eight and the next morning I woke up in Shanghai. There is a technical term for that, and it involves nineteenth century Portland.

The last night in Mumbai: a night market, a decision not to sleep, and a 2:25 AM departure. Seat 59D turns out to be a find. Home before noon.

Hollywood has the money. Bollywood has the numbers. A comparison of two industries that share a name suffix and almost nothing else, from someone who has spent time in both.

A private walking tour of Dharavi, Mumbai's densest neighbourhood. Two million people, three dollars a day, plastic recycling, soap, ceramics. Everyone working, all the time.

For the last few days in India, Palolem Beach in South Goa. A crescent of sand, calm water, beach huts, and a pace that makes it easy to stop counting days.

Pit No. 30, dated 14 February 2026. A Forest Department mesh cage on Palolem Beach, a turtle nest inside, and a small calculation about what might already have happened by the time I found it.

India's largest carrier and by some distance its best budget option. Four flights on a modern A320neo fleet, new aircraft, smooth boarding, and rather better than Ryanair. Which is not nothing.